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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My Questions are model, date of manufactur, is it safe to shoot current manufactured ammo or does it require black powder & what’s the most comprehensive S&W book out there for this type of information in the future. I know this is a rough one. It needs a new handspring but the lockup is tight, the bore is pretty good & I think it’s a decent candidate for a refurb.
Revolver Sleeve Grey Finger Gun barrel

Human body Gesture Finger Thumb Nail
 

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Welcome to the forums from the Wiregrass! ^What 59dexta said. The star stamped at the end of the serial number on the butt indicates the gun went back to S&W for work. If you carefully remove the grips and look on the left side of the grip frame there may be a service date stamped on the toe of the frame in this format: MM.YY.
 

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Based off my internet and Youtube research, a top break can do the smokeless and/or cowboy loads if they have a similar fps rating to original. The pressure is alot higher with smokeless over black powder, but many OGs I follow on Youtube use both no problems. Remember Alot of the top-break you see had been used over the last 120+ years and when the smokeless stuff started popping up in the early 20th century. "duelist1954" is the editor of black powder magazine and talks extensively about 19th century guns. He has been my inspiration. Also "TinkerTalksGuns" has been equally helpful and informative. Please check out those two. I'll tray and share links below in a followup post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yours would be the 38 double action 3rd model made toward the end of the 1880's. Best source is the standard catalog o f Smith and Wesson 4th edition. If you get it functioning the 38 s&w are alright to shoot in it. The one at 3o'clock is my 2nd model
Dan View attachment 597911
Thank you very much Sir! I’ve always had a hard time identifying the early S&W revolvers. It’s something we don’t see a lot of in the shop so I’ve never dedicated the time to really learning them. Here’s a picture of a model 1 1/2 (I think) that we just finished up. It didn’t turn out too bad for the condition it was in.
Air gun Gun accessory Revolver Everyday carry Gun barrel
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Welcome to the forums from the Wiregrass! ^What 59dexta said. The star stamped at the end of the serial number on the butt indicates the gun went back to S&W for work. If you carefully remove the grips and look on the left side of the grip frame there may be a service date stamped on the toe of the frame in this format: MM.YY.
Thanks! That pretty interesting to know. I’ll have to pull the grips off & check it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Based off my internet and Youtube research, a top break can do the smokeless and/or cowboy loads if they have a similar fps rating to original. The pressure is alot higher with smokeless over black powder, but many OGs I follow on Youtube use both no problems. Remember Alot of the top-break you see had been used over the last 120+ years and when the smokeless stuff started popping up in the early 20th century. "duelist1954" is the editor of black powder magazine and talks extensively about 19th century guns. He has been my inspiration. Also "TinkerTalksGuns" has been equally helpful and informative. Please check out those two. I'll tray and share links below in a followup post.
Thanks for the links, I’ll check those out.
 

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Thank you very much Sir! I’ve always had a hard time identifying the early S&W revolvers. It’s something we don’t see a lot of in the shop so I’ve never dedicated the time to really learning them. Here’s a picture of a model 1 1/2 (I think) that we just finished up. It didn’t turn out too bad for the condition it was in. View attachment 598091
Thats pretty awesome.
 
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