Either a replaced cylinder or Bubba'd. Although one of my M frames had that problem and the cyl. was fine too. nvonjvilaSomething is definitely haywire - the cylinder doesn't show any wear that should accompany a cylinder stop in that bad condition. Strange.
Cheezus. JB Weld? The right part is only 6 bucks. Tap the old one out from the back, tap the new one in. Use a soft item when installing so as not to damage it.I was thinking a spot of JB Weld as a temporary repair, filed down to match.
Will the gun safely fire without a repair? If I choose to shoot it.
kfjdrfirii The link to the part is a few posts up. You may have to do some judicious filing for proper fit. But it should be snug.Excellent Advice! It didn't occur to me that a little piece of metal you never notice could be the source of such annoyance. I figured a broken shaft or missing spring or stripped threads or something. I was already contemplating how I could mill a part without a milling machine.
As the part that's available now is a "multi model" part, I'd expect some variation. You're correct though, the original was put in with a press. The replacement can be put in with a small hammer and a bronze punch- being careful not to damage the lip- or a piece of lead or hardwood in a pinch.How was it done at the factory? Skeptical they'd take the time for hand-fitting, so I'd guess an arbor press, or another machine that worked the same way, was used.
I'm sure there are many, many ways guys (and gals) have fixed. I'm not a competent gunsmith. Tons of tools, but I know when to stop. Opening complicated devices worries me. Too many "I know how to take it apart....." stories.Your cylinder stop is somewhat pushed into the frame of the gun,,,, that happened to my model 65-2, the gun was taken to a gunsmith. He re-positioned the cylinder stop and secured it using green ball bearing glue...... Just my two cents