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Definitely needs a replacement cylinder stop. That one is too worn to planish the metal back. Now comes the fun part of finding one or someone who can make one & replace it.
 

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Factory defect? Doesn't show enough use to have been "worn" down.


Something is definitely haywire - the cylinder doesn't show any wear that should accompany a cylinder stop in that bad condition. Strange.
 

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Something is definitely haywire - the cylinder doesn't show any wear that should accompany a cylinder stop in that bad condition. Strange.
Either a replaced cylinder or Bubba'd. Although one of my M frames had that problem and the cyl. was fine too. nvonjvila




Oh, and when ordering parts it's not the cylinder stop- that's one of these:

s-l500.jpg

Be real specific- "frame lug"
 
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It doesn't look worn off, but 'sheared' off. I wonder if the gun was dropped at some point and the stop hit a hard object? That might explain the otherwise clean condition.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I was thinking a spot of JB Weld as a temporary repair, filed down to match.

Will the gun safely fire without a repair? If I choose to shoot it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
You know, I have my suspicions... The bluing on the cylinder is slightly different and not as nice. I put it off to putting a bigger cylinder from a close model of 5 shot 38 S&W.
 

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I was thinking a spot of JB Weld as a temporary repair, filed down to match.

Will the gun safely fire without a repair? If I choose to shoot it.
Cheezus. JB Weld? The right part is only 6 bucks. Tap the old one out from the back, tap the new one in. Use a soft item when installing so as not to damage it.

Yes, it can be shot in its present condition. You'll have to hold the cylinder when it's out of the frame.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Excellent Advice! It didn't occur to me that a little piece of metal you never notice could be the source of such annoyance. I figured a broken shaft or missing spring or stripped threads or something. I was already contemplating how I could mill a part without a milling machine.
 

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Excellent Advice! It didn't occur to me that a little piece of metal you never notice could be the source of such annoyance. I figured a broken shaft or missing spring or stripped threads or something. I was already contemplating how I could mill a part without a milling machine.
kfjdrfirii The link to the part is a few posts up. You may have to do some judicious filing for proper fit. But it should be snug.
 

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How was it done at the factory? Skeptical they'd take the time for hand-fitting, so I'd guess an arbor press, or another machine that worked the same way, was used.
As the part that's available now is a "multi model" part, I'd expect some variation. You're correct though, the original was put in with a press. The replacement can be put in with a small hammer and a bronze punch- being careful not to damage the lip- or a piece of lead or hardwood in a pinch.


Note to the OP: If you're not comfortable with the internal working of your gun- hand it over to a competent gunsmith to do the work. The lockwork and cylinder need to be removed to access the lug
 
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Your cylinder stop is somewhat pushed into the frame of the gun,,,, that happened to my model 65-2, the gun was taken to a gunsmith. He re-positioned the cylinder stop and secured it using green ball bearing glue...... Just my two cents
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Your cylinder stop is somewhat pushed into the frame of the gun,,,, that happened to my model 65-2, the gun was taken to a gunsmith. He re-positioned the cylinder stop and secured it using green ball bearing glue...... Just my two cents
I'm sure there are many, many ways guys (and gals) have fixed. I'm not a competent gunsmith. Tons of tools, but I know when to stop. Opening complicated devices worries me. Too many "I know how to take it apart....." stories.
 

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Any decent S&W gunsmith can fit and install one of these. Good choice.
 
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