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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a M1917 S/N 46817 built in April 1918. It has a blown out barrel. I have removed the barrel pin and unscrewed the damaged barrel. I have searched the internet for a direct replacement barrel and can't find one. Question I have is: Can some other .45 caliber N-frame barrel with the proper notch for the barrel pin be adapted to the gun frame with minimal "Smithing?" The gun is a shooter, and I don't care about how it looks or if it's value will be affected. I don't care if the replacement barrel shoulder matches the frame.
TJ Moran
 

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Welcome to the forums from the Wiregrass! Yes, any N frame barrel should thread into the frame. You may have to adjust the barrel to cylinder gap. I looked for a Model 1917 barrel for a long time before I found a Brazilian-made replacement. Good luck!
 

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The two Guys gave you good advice. Any N frame barrel will fit. For the two tone look, a barrel from a S&W Model 625 could be used and may be easier to find. Be aware, S&W has discontinued the 45 ACP as a chambering in revolvers so the parts are drying up. Not to say there are not some still out there. You could also use the barrel from the 45 long Colt S&W revolver.

Good luck,

Kevin
 

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Iggy, the Brazilians made replacement parts for the Model 1917's we sold them. The Brazilian barrels have no extractor rod flat on them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
1. Does the knurled knob at the end of the ejector plunger unscrew from the rod?
2. From what I've read, the ejector plunger rod unscrews from the cylinder assembly with a right hand thread?

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I bought a 1955 target N-frame barrel (new old stock.) waiting to receive it and fit it.
Thanks,
TJ Moran
 

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1. No. They are one piece.
2. Yes. That era extractor rod is right hand thread. However, a 1955 rod knurled end is not the same as your original mushroom-shaped end. You will need to modify the barrel or replace the rod so it will fit under the barrel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks, Wiregrass guy. Yes, my plan forward is to chuck the ejector plunger in my lathe and turn the knob down as required to mate with the recess under the barrel. This M1917 warhorse has some sentimental value to me. I bought it in 1969 at a gunshop in Long Beach, California for the grand sum of $38.50. The action is still reasonably tight and I enjoyed shooting it before the barrel blew out (undetected squib - - - my bad.) I also shoot a M1911A1, so it's nice to use the same ammo in both guns.
Again, thanks for the reply.
TJ Moran
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I picked up a copy of Kuhnhausen's S&W revolver book. All seems straight forward fitting a new barrel to my M1917.

One minor question: For final barrel install and torquing/alignment, any processing on threads: such as; torque dry; lube with oil (Ballistol, synthetic, Hoppe's, CLP;) use antisieze compound etc.

I can't find any guidance in the book.
Thanks,
TJ Moran
 

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No torque specs. The barrel is tightened until the barrel shoulder contacts the frame and then tightened to align the front sight. If it won't align, you mill or file the frame to let the barrel set deeper until it aligns. This is usually done without any lubrication on the threads. Then you may have to adjust the barrel to cylinder gap to .004"-.010". YOu may have to file the barrel shank to make the gap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Okay – here’s the latest update on the rebuild of my blown-up M1917. The replacement barrel is 6 ½ inches long (original stock barrel was 5 ½ inches.) Replacement barrel is a P/N 5613 new-in-box old-stock; never been fired. Believe it is for the 1955 vintage N-frame 25-2 target model. Trimmed the barrel shoulder to set the recommended 36 degree offset for torquing preload. Trimmed the back end of the barrel to set the cylinder to barrel clearance. Cut the forcing cone using Brownell’s cutter and gage. Trimmed the ejector rod forward mushroom

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knob flush to clear the channel on the replacement barrel. The basic gun is 1918 vintage by serial number, so it has some holster wear and rust pitting. I will probably install an adjustable rear sight sometime in the future. It is far from original, (but that ship sailed when the original stock barrel let go.) It will never win a beauty contest, but hey, it’s got sentimental value to me. I bought Kuhnhausen’s S&W Revolvers Shop Manual, which, needless to say, I can highly recommend. As of this writing, I have not fired it yet. Thanks to all who provided inputs and recommendations for this project.
TJ Moran
 
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