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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A buddy of mine recently picked up a dirt cheap 12 ga. Remington 11-48 with a 28" barrel sporting a full choke. I have a 12 ga. 26" 1100 with an improved cylinder. All we do is break backyard clays and my gun is perfect for this task. He was asking me about trimming off a little bit to open the choke up a skosh to make it more suitable for this use. I got to reading up and found some diagrams that showed various chokes that included shot patterns and percentages at certain distances.
Do we have any experts here that have some knowledge/experience with cutting down a barrel to open up the the choke a little? B4 someone makes the suggestion, I know there are barrels out there for sale, but the gun only cost him $175 and he doesn't wanna spend that kind of dinero for a gun that was so cheap. Thanx.


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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Good luck finding barrels for sale. I was looking for a barrel in cylinder bore for my Mossberg 500(modified chock) and couldn't find one. I would thing a full chock would be a killer for clays.
Even if he could find a barrel, he doesn't wanna spend that much dinero on a $175 gun, and I wouldn't either. The problemo is that the pattern I guess is too tight for his skill level. My 26" improved cylinder worx much better for skeet.

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Better to have a gunsmith open it up to .015 (light modified); might run about $50
 

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You can use “spreader” loads if you can find them. They use to be readily available pre panic but I haven’t looked in years. Spreader loads open up nicely out of a full choke and bring the pattern in closer by about 20 yds. Out of a clyinder bore gun it gives new meaning to the term spray snd pray.

if you really don’t want to spend zip, if you had a brake wheel cylinder hone handy and a measuring device...you could just “have at” that “lumped” area in the bore choke snd take off about .015” from the full reading. I’ve done it...but most will tell you to just pay a real gunsmith to open The choke. Most barrels are too valuable to...”hack”.
 

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Buy a $20 adjustable reamer in the diameter range. Collect some 40" squares of cardboard, inscribe with an aimpoint surrounded by a 30" circle. Buy some decent #8 shot (cheap stuff is too unpredictable) and tickle it to the desired density at the desired range. I agree that Skeet II or light modified is a good fixed choke choice. Were I going to a gunsmith I would opt for threading the barrel for a common brand tube.
 

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He could try this.


Gets three choke tubes with the work.

Hector
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
It's been decided that rather than chopping off the end of the barrel a 'smith is gonna ream it (for lack of a better term) to the desired diameter for about 40 bucks. This ain't rocket surgery so I'm not gonna overthink it by turning a simple task into a project. I do appreciate all the input. (y)

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What choke did you decide on?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
What choke did you decide on?
Thanx for asking. The envelope please: And the winner is...Improved Cylinder. After the choke is opened up a little, he's trading the 11-48 with me for some small pistol primers. I'm valuing the gun at about two bills and I'm gonna give him five boxes of primers. I paid about $40 for each box so it's a fair trade. I really like that old 12 ga. 11-48 (1952), and me thinx it will go with my 12 ga. 1100, which is also an improved cylinder. The difference on barrel length is 2", with the 11-48 being a little longer than the 26" 1100. It'll be interesting to compare the recoil operated 11-48 v. the gas operation of the 1100.

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The recoil operation will become more apparent as the day lengthens. I grew up shooting Browning Auto-5's and Remington 11's and 11-48's. At 65 I would not be inclined to take one to a dove field. Although I love the feel of a 16 ga. 11-48, the pile driver effect is eventual.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The recoil operation will become more apparent as the day lengthens. I grew up shooting Browning Auto-5's and Remington 11's and 11-48's. At 65 I would not be inclined to take one to a dove field. Although I love the feel of a 16 ga. 11-48, the pile driver effect is eventual.

I have already shot the 11-48 a bunch of times and the recoil is reasonable. I also have one of those slip-on recoil pads but so far I haven't needed it. Besides, my shootin' buddies would prolly laff at me if I put that on a semi-auto. One of my friends brought a box of low recoil 12 ga. shells to the range one day and looked at me sideways when I told him that those were meant for ladies and children. :ROFLMAO:

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Then you have an issue with your shotgun; there should be no reason why it needs such massive loads to function.
 

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BB242 we need to know the make/model in question. Most of the recoil operated ones have friction adapters. I have seen a couple with selectors. I have known people who have opened the gas holes on Remington 1100 barrels. The modern inertilas should eat everything including 3" and/or 3.5" duck loads, but it was not always so.
 

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It is a SRM 1216 - and the reviews I have read confirm that it needs the heavier loadings - at least when new. It is a roller-delayed recoil-operated action.

A 16-Round, Revolving Shotgun? The SRM Arms Model 1216—Full Review

That reviewer says "over 1 1/8 oz", but I find that 1 1/4 oz reliability is very much up to the exact load (velocity, etc), so I just bump it up to the next weight.


Now, I haven't fired it a lot, and it may well "wear in" and loosen up a little over time, and begin working fully with lighter loads - but I really don't shoot it much, so that may take a couple of years.
 

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This is well beyond my experience in shotguns. In fact I only briefly tried an extended magazine on my 870 turkey gun. It simply struck me as unbalanced.

With a new brand, new model, trying to overcame previous problems; if you are getting to work, I would stick with what functions..................
 
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