Intitial Cleaning Of New Firearms?
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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrerick View Post
    Many leave the factory with oil in the barrels, and some even have metal chip in a variety of places.

    I always clean them. You don't want oil in a barrel because of the hydraulic effect . You don't want chips for the damage they can do. A good once over and field strip is needed.

    I agree. Firearms from the factory can be really cruddy inside and the actions can be gritty from left over crud too.

    I use an appropriate cleaning kit with Hoppes cleaning and lubrication chemicals or another penetrating preserving gun oil like RemOil.

    I also agree with this caveat... Before discharging, run a dry patch through the barrel to remove the Rem Oil or whatever you use. You want a dry barrel. Wet barrels can and will cause more rapid fouling with jacketed pills.

    Nothing fancy. Just the right stuff.

    I also like "Boresnake" type cleaning ropes.

    I don't, they are junk. In fact I have a couple if you want them, I'll send the to you. All a 'Boresnake' does is redeposit the crud and unburnt powder fouling you took out the first time you pulled it through and the brass brush thing does zip as well. Overpriced gadget that does nothing except deposit dirt in the tube.

    NEVER use WD-40 on firearms. It's a water displacement chemical, not a lubricant or metal preservative.

    I agree. WD40 is for your wife to use on squeaky hinges and for you to dry out ignition systems. I hear it's good for stuff human joints too but I don't want to stink like it. Not a pleasant smell...lol I do know it's good for yellowed headlights too, but Crest Super White toothpaste does a better job and leaves your headlights with a 'minty fresh smell'.

    Do not over clean guns. You'll cause more wear than using the gun will.
    Here is where I disagree. So long as you use the proper cleaning tools, wear will be inconsequential and that means no brass brushes especially. I use only nylon cleaning brushes, patch pullers with cotton (not synthetic) patches, Bore Tech Eliminator to remove copper and powder fouling followed by a patch of Hoppes 9 (because I like the smell more than anything else). Rem Oil on a patch is just as good.

    I clean my firearms after EVERY time I shoot them. Especially , long guns though handguns are no exception and...

    I always use a bore guide in my guns (revolvers and semi's excluded) to keep any cleaning agents out of the actions. Custom actions like Jewell and Timney for example can be ruined from solvents leaking down from the inside of the bolt carrier into the trigger group. I always use a bore guide with a tight fitting rubber end to seal the chamber and rifling from the action and I always keep the muzzle end LOWER than the butt end of any firearm. You want the solutions to rub downhill always.

    I don't care what you clean with, if it's a liquid of some sort, my regimen applies.

    Finally, a dry bore is a happy bore. Always pull a dry cotton patch through the bore to remove any preservative you had in there before you discharge it. That left over lubricant will cause the tube to foul quickly and causes inaccuracy too.

    I have to take issue with some of your comments. Nothing personal meant and you know me well enough to not take it personal. Been doing this a long time now and on very expensive firearms.
    Daryl......

    'You can fool some of the people all of the time, all of the people some of the time, but you cannot fool mom....

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by ussmanlovede36 View Post
    I use Hoppes #9 or Ballistol but I don't use Ballistol on nickel platted guns. Ballistol can get under the nickel and cause it to flake off. I think more so on older nickel platted guns that may have some hair line cracks in the platting.
    Yes, absolutely, I've had this happen to me on a Uberti made Doc Holiday model SAA, it caused the nickel on the butt of the grip to flake off, I had to send it away to be redone.

  3. #23
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    I use a spray degreaser to flush out any machining debris ans oil that the debris sticks to. I have a needle oiler with Mobil 1 to lubricate small action parts and a small rag nearly saturated with it to wipe down the metal exterior and use Super lube grease on the heavier wear areas, such as slide rails, camming or lockup areas, and swab the bore with a lightly oiled patch.
    Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic.
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  5. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeepnut View Post
    I always strip and clean my new guns and used guns as I know how to properly dismantle them, know what the internals look like and that they are cleaned and lubed to my standards.
    Same, and I finish each with a Renaissance wax job.
    Amvets Life Member, U.S. Navy Vet
    NRA

  6. #25
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    I've bought a few older guns at a nice price, their only fault being they needed a thorough cleaning. My 65-3 had grease in the lockwork that was more plastic than grease.
    Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic.
    -Arthur C. Clarke
    It is difficult to get a man to understand something when his salary depends upon his not understanding it.
    -Upton Sinclair
    Please do not open and post the links on my threads.
    19and41

  7. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Layne12gun View Post
    Make sure that the barrel is clear from obstructions . wipe down the exterior and SHOOT IT. The oils and greases help break it in. So SHOOT IT . !!
    So true!........Why tear it apart first? This week picked up my NIB 410 semi auto shotgun..........I did as you said and went the the skeet field and put 7 boxes through it with 100% reliability.

  8. #27
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    We’ve purchased 4 guns from the same gun store from the same salesman – 1) Taurus Judge; 2) S&W Lady Smith; 3) 460V; and 4) 4” 686. With each gun we’ve purchased, the store offered free initial cleaning. Well, my momma had alot of things, but a stupid child (I was 1 of 1 – she said she got it right the first time, and didn’t need to do it again . . .), so I took them up on it. Each gun looked OK when we went to pick it up, except for the 460V. They wouldn’t even let me see it as they said it was a black cruddy mess, and they contacted Smith & Wesson č photos, and Smith overnighted another one to the gun store. I went back to the store the following week, and that one was beautiful. And, yes, I took them up on the offer to have it cleaned before I left the store with it. The salesman, and the store owner, don’t normally provide this service, so I’ll keep the store name/location under my hat. Further, Smith & Wesson responded promptly to the situation, and made it right. As far as I’m concerned, they’re a first-class company. Why, when I couldn’t get a catalogue from them, I wrote the CEO, I got a personal reply from him, and now I get one every year. How’s that for a stand-up company?!?!?!?!?


 
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