shaving the strain?
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  1. #1
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    shaving the strain?

    I bought a new strain screw. I watched my miculek dvd and I watched his utube vid and decided while I dont want to get down to the wieghts he is talking I wold like to lighten the trigger the tiniest bit.

    I shoot it OK but find the switch from double action to single action when pulling through the trigger just pronounced enough to mess withme and honestly I just shoot the GP a hair better.

    I tried a spring kit from Wilson and was light striking so I pulled it out but it did remove that noticeable transition.

    I can probably leave it as is and I think most people would be envious of how I shot it .. but .. I am a born dyed in the wool tinker and have to mess with things.

    So now that I have a back up screw so I can mess one up .. I understand we are taking 1000's off.

    What are you using to remove material? I have a course arkansas stone, some diamond hones jewelers files ...?

    Is it important to try and keep the dome shape?
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    Have you tried the combo of a full powered mainspring and a lightened rebound slide spring?
    "The right to buy weapons is the right to be free." -A.E. van Vogt

    " It is simply not possible to believe fossil fuel emissions will destroy the world and, at the same time, oppose nuclear power. "- Dennis Prager

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    Quote Originally Posted by delcrossv View Post
    Have you tried the combo of a full powered mainspring and a lightened rebound slide spring?
    I put in the firmest rebound spring from the kit and then gave the rest of it away. I think the firmest was a 14#. its nice as it didnt make the trigger dead and mushy but .. there is a spot during the pull that is making me nuts. I thought it was just a smith thing but I tired a couple my friend brought over and its not there.

    The weight isnt an issue .. its what feel like the transition between DA and SA. The spot at which, if you were a stager, you would feel it move from one action to another.

    I may just open it up so I can get a better understanding of what mechanically is going on right at that part of the stroke. I Pull straight through quickly but it will still move that front sight ever so much .. right at that spot! Grrrrrrr

    That is 21 rounds at 8 yds DA unsupported so I am not complaining to much .. Maybe not bullseye work but good enough for combat shooting .. but I know it can be better.

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    With my 3" Gp I wouldnt have those flyers at the upper right

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    First polish the rebound slide & the frame surfaces it moves on to cut friction, then think about springs if there's still any reason. Springs are the last ditch part of an action job, never the first. The staging issue is most likely a rough spot inside, not a spring problem. To answer your question: @ the range loosen the strain screw until you're happy w/ the tension but not getting light strikes (tighten until light strikes go away). Count how many turns you loosened the screw & remove that many threads, yes, the dome shape is important... it's not there because it's pretty. I always try leaving it a bit long & go back if needed since it's harder to replace metal than remove it. Spring work should only be done if polishing the action doesn't work, S&W doesn't put in extra strength springs because they're sadists. In the countless action jobs I've done as a gunsmith I can only recall 1 that needed a lighter spring.
    "He that hath no sword, let him sell his garment & buy one" Jesus - Luke 22:36

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    Quote Originally Posted by Injunbro View Post
    First polish the rebound slide & the frame surfaces it moves on to cut friction, then think about springs if there's still any reason. Springs are the last ditch part of an action job, never the first. The staging issue is most likely a rough spot inside, not a spring problem. To answer your question: @ the range loosen the strain screw until you're happy w/ the tension but not getting light strikes (tighten until light strikes go away). Count how many turns you loosened the screw & remove that many threads, yes, the dome shape is important... it's not there because it's pretty. I always try leaving it a bit long & go back if needed since it's harder to replace metal than remove it. Spring work should only be done if polishing the action doesn't work, S&W doesn't put in extra strength springs because they're sadists. In the countless action jobs I've done as a gunsmith I can only recall 1 that needed a lighter spring.
    Thank you!! .. I am a little confused about something though. I am looking at the screw and if I got it right you are suggesting removing threads? So I am not taking it off the end? The screw looks like a shoulder screw so wont it still just bottom out in the hole at the same depth? Glad I bought an extra screw!!

    I bought the standard power Wolf power rib but havent received it yet. I don't need it lighter but the wolf claims to remove the stacking. I will open her up and check the areas you mentioned and watch the video again. Thank you!
    Alex
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boriqua View Post
    Thank you!! .. I am a little confused about something though. I am looking at the screw and if I got it right you are suggesting removing threads? So I am not taking it off the end? The screw looks like a shoulder screw so wont it still just bottom out in the hole at the same depth? Glad I bought an extra screw!! Alex


    I just use the # of threads to indicate how much shorter the screw needs to be, it can be done w/ a micrometer. The screw should always be bottomed out, the thing you're cutting is the amount it pushes on the mainspring.
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    "He that hath no sword, let him sell his garment & buy one" Jesus - Luke 22:36

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    Quote Originally Posted by Injunbro View Post
    I just use the # of threads to indicate how much shorter the screw needs to be, it can be done w/ a micrometer. The screw should always be bottomed out, the thing you're cutting is the amount it pushes on the mainspring.
    Got it!! But .. should I remove material I should try and keep the same domed profile .. right? I think I can manage that. Hopefully the polishing will make the back up screw unnecessary!

    I think I will do polish first ... then try Standard power power rib and then shaving screw and using stock spring in that order of finding the perfect feel. Cool thing is .. any of those things is reversible!!
    Last edited by Boriqua; 02-14-2020 at 02:07 PM.
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    I polished the rebound slide & area in frame where it rides on my 617 and put in a Wolff Factory Power, Power Rib main spring. I replaced the factory 18# rebound spring with a 16# spring. That was enough to drop the DA trigger pull from 11.2 pounds down to right about 10 pounds, and it is very smooth. I haven't been out to try it yet, but the hammer is still hitting pretty hard.
    I also polished the rebound slide and frame on my M60 which had a pretty heavy (over 12#), not the smoothest trigger pull. I ordered the Wolf j frame kit with a reduced power main spring. Factory is 8.5#, the reduced power is 8#. I then put in a 15# rebound spring. This dropped the trigger pull down to 11.1# and its slick as silk.
    When you polish the rebound slide & where It rides in the frame, it allows a somewhat weaker spring to be able to do the same work due to less friction.
    I also have not tried the M60 yet, but the hammer is hitting hard. My reloads have CCI primers so if I don't have a problem with them I should be good to go.
    Most of my revolvers have a pretty good trigger feel and pull, but there are a couple more I would like to slick up and lighten just a bit. Its amazing what that 1-1.5 # difference makes. my goal isn't a 7# pull that only ignites federal primers. If I don't get 100% reliability I will change things until I do
    Last edited by jonesy814; 02-14-2020 at 05:10 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boriqua View Post
    Thank you!! .. I am a little confused about something though. I am looking at the screw and if I got it right you are suggesting removing threads? So I am not taking it off the end? The screw looks like a shoulder screw so wont it still just bottom out in the hole at the same depth? Glad I bought an extra screw!!

    I bought the standard power Wolf power rib but havent received it yet. I don't need it lighter but the wolf claims to remove the stacking. I will open her up and check the areas you mentioned and watch the video again. Thank you!
    Alex
    From my single experience, the Wolff power Rib does eliminate or at least mostly eliminates stacking.
    Which revolver are you working on?
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  11. #10
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    Its a 686+ .... I have been after the little funky hitch since I got it. I made a great deal of progress when I did a touch of work on the hand and ratchet. Very little messing with it gave me a great return.

    Its not my first smith. I have had a two 686 6 shooters, a 66, a 586 L comp and a 629. This is the first one where I get that bit of funk midway.

    I am probably not expressing myself well. It is just where you would stage the trigger if you were a stager. I did notice when I had the reduced springs I didnt feel it .. of course the gun wouldnt shoot but .. IT FELT GREAT! LOL

    Now I am not a stager and never have been but even when pushing through .. Kink .. Just enough TO ANNOY ME TO PIECES!

    Just got the email today that my Power rib was sent out so some time next week I will install and polish the rebound slide and frame where it rests. Wolf has a reduced and a standard. I bought the standard.

    I will be sure to report back
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