K38 getting difficult to open cyclinder.
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 18
Like Tree15Likes

Thread: K38 getting difficult to open cyclinder.

  1. #1
    Member
    Member #
    2626
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    36
    Liked
    21 times

    K38 getting difficult to open cyclinder.

    I have two older K38 five-screw target revolvers. One just has a serial number...no "k" or "M14" marked inside the frame. That one is very easy to open the cylinder. However the other one, marked with a "k" in front of the serial number and "M14" (no dash), inside the frame, has gotten a little hard to open either empty or after firing. I only shoot very mild cast bullet loads...that is all I have ever shot in ether one of them...thousands of very mild loads.

    The problem is NOT dirt...I have taken it down and cleaned it very diligently. There is no apparent reason for its balkyness at opening. The bolt is pushing flush with the frame when I push on the thumb piece and locking bolt out on the barrel lug is moving free and easy.

    I would really like to get the cylinder on the M14 to open as free and easy as the older K38, but I am at a loss as to why it has a tendency to take so much force to open it compared to the older shooter.

    Any ideas? Have you gunsmiths run across this before?

  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Member #
    16076
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    North Central Florida
    Posts
    4,381
    Liked
    11082 times
    The cylinder not opening and closing smoothly on a K frame can be many things . In desending order ill give you the run down from most possible to least possible.

    1. Loose Extractor rod ( tighten up extractor rod with some spent rounds in the charge holds . ( Reverse Threads

    2. Worn Bolt the bolt that pushes on the extractor rod tip in the frame is worn. fix is replace the bolt .

    3. Dirt under the extractor star

    4. Ammunition rubs on frame and primer flow..

    5. Worn locking bolt getting sloppy and rocking in the bolt cut.

    6. Loose thumb piece nut on the sidd plate.

    7. Bent extractor rod.

    8. worn yoke screw getting sloppy or to tight

    9. Worn yoke button

    10, Short or worn center pin

    11, Yoke out of alignment ( gun dropped or cylinder slammed shut. ? )

    12, End Shake of cylinder yoke. more than .005 deviation

    13, Worn recoil plate / firing pin bushing backing out into cylinder area dragging on the rounds or cylinder

    i have to assume that this is a problem with the gun unloaded as well as loaded. That is why I put the ammo problems also. . Good luck hope it works out for you.

    Layne12gun
    Rule3, Forester, jeepnut and 3 others like this.
    TO Ride, Shoot Straight, and Speak the Truth.

  3. #3
    Member
    Member #
    2626
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    36
    Liked
    21 times
    1. Loose Extractor rod ( tighten up extractor rod with some spent rounds in the charge holds . ( Reverse Threads
    Extractor rod not loose (K38 this old have right hand threads).
    2. Worn Bolt the bolt that pushes on the extractor rod tip in the frame is worn. fix is replace the bolt .
    The Bolt pushes out flush with the frame. There is a slight dimple in the end of the bolt where the extractor rod tip touches it, but by "slight", I mean about .0005 of an inch...barely perceptible and logically not enough to cause the problem. The bolt does not seem to be causing the problem.
    3. Dirt under the extractor star
    The recess for the extractor star and the underside of the extractor star have been scrubbed with a toothbrush...no debris or dirt under it.
    4. Ammunition rubs on frame and primer flow..
    With ammo, without ammo, makes no difference.
    5. Worn locking bolt getting sloppy and rocking in the bolt cut.
    Locking bolt has no more apparent clearance than the K38 that opens freely. As a mtter of fact, the bolts on both k38's push slightly (.001-.0005) proud of the frame. It seems that the locking bolt cannot be the problem.
    6. Loose thumb piece nut on the sidd plate.
    Thumbpiece nut is tight.
    7. Bent extractor rod.
    I will take it apart and roll the extractor rod on a surface plate...so that has yet to be eliminated as a possible cause.
    8. worn yoke screw getting sloppy or to tight
    Yoke is tight, no play, not binding.
    9. Worn yoke button
    What is a "yoke button"?
    10, Short or worn center pin
    I have considered that...the gun may have always been a little hard to open and I may have only noticed it when I acquired the older k38 and had to to compare to the M14. It may be a perception "fault".

    11, Yoke out of alignment ( gun dropped or cylinder slammed shut. ? )
    Yoke not misaligned, yoke to frame fit is superb.
    12, End Shake of cylinder yoke. more than .005 deviation
    .007 with fired cases in the chambers on the problem one, .008 with fired cases on the one the opens easily.
    13, Worn recoil plate / firing pin bushing backing out into cylinder area dragging on the rounds or cylinder
    Both k38's show no more than very minor wear on the recoil place from the tip of the ejector rod. The firing pin bushing is flush with the frame.
    i have to assume that this is a problem with the gun unloaded as well as loaded. That is why I put the ammo problems also. . Good luck hope it works out for you.
    As per my original post, loaded-unloaded makes no difference.

    At this point I have concluded that it may have a congenitally short extractor rod. Inasmuch as they do not cost a fortune, I will order one, install it, and see if it makes a difference.
    Thewelshm and ShooterGranny like this.

  4. Remove Advertisements
    SmithAndWessonForums.com
    Advertisements
     

  5. #4
    Senior Member
    Member #
    16076
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    North Central Florida
    Posts
    4,381
    Liked
    11082 times
    The yoke scew has a tapered end that engages the yoke inside the frame. frame. its called the Yoke Button A short extractor rod could be the culprit. Everything i said above is directly from the Armorers manual .
    jeepnut and Thewelshm like this.
    TO Ride, Shoot Straight, and Speak the Truth.

  6. #5
    Supporting Member
    Supporting Member

    Member #
    17948
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    S.E. Michigan
    Posts
    9,749
    Liked
    16662 times
    Quote Originally Posted by Layne12gun View Post
    The yoke scew has a tapered end that engages the yoke inside the frame. frame. its called the Yoke Button A short extractor rod could be the culprit. Everything i said above is directly from the Armorers manual .
    Been mulling this over for a day or so....

    I'm thinking the cylinder runout isn't within spec or the forcing cone to cylinder face dimension is too tight or both.
    Daryl......

    'You can fool some of the people all of the time, all of the people some of the time, but you cannot fool mom....

  7. #6
    Supporting Member
    Supporting Member

    Member #
    17948
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    S.E. Michigan
    Posts
    9,749
    Liked
    16662 times
    Quote Originally Posted by Layne12gun View Post
    The yoke scew has a tapered end that engages the yoke inside the frame. frame. its called the Yoke Button A short extractor rod could be the culprit. Everything i said above is directly from the Armorers manual .
    Been mulling this over for a day or so....

    I'm thinking the cylinder runout isn't within spec or the forcing cone to cylinder face dimension is too tight or both.

    Runout and too tight a face to cone dimension can be caused by wear on the cylinder bushing the resides in front of the hand.
    Daryl......

    'You can fool some of the people all of the time, all of the people some of the time, but you cannot fool mom....

  8. #7
    Senior Member
    Member #
    61
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Glendale AZ
    Posts
    9,751
    Liked
    26846 times
    I had a similar problem with a 686 L-Frame that I recently resolved. Take a look.

    https://www.smithandwessonforums.com...sue-686-a.html
    ShooterGranny likes this.
    “So son, explain again exactly why there’s a stripper in your bedroom?"

  9. #8
    Member
    Member #
    2626
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    36
    Liked
    21 times
    Quote Originally Posted by Blackcloud2 View Post
    I had a similar problem with a 686 L-Frame that I recently resolved. Take a look.

    https://www.smithandwessonforums.com...sue-686-a.html

    Too short a center pin is what I am thinking too.
    Blackcloud2 likes this.

  10. #9
    Senior Member
    Member #
    61
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Glendale AZ
    Posts
    9,751
    Liked
    26846 times
    Quote Originally Posted by dahermit View Post
    Too short a center pin is what I am thinking too.
    They're available and cheap from Numrich. If you do change it, be prepared to custom fit the new one to your gun.
    Injunbro likes this.
    “So son, explain again exactly why there’s a stripper in your bedroom?"

  11. #10
    Senior Member
    Member #
    16076
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    North Central Florida
    Posts
    4,381
    Liked
    11082 times
    Its really hard to tell without holding the gun in our hands. Were trying to get to the bottom of the problem. ?? i would not suspect cylinder run out unless the gun had a TON of rounds through it. !!!????
    TO Ride, Shoot Straight, and Speak the Truth.


 
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Links

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Similar Threads

  1. model 66 cyclinder jam
    By educ959 in forum S&W - Gunsmithing
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 03-17-2016, 05:44 PM
  2. model 49 j frame cyclinder binding issue
    By cheezit in forum S&W - Gunsmithing
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 09-14-2012, 06:52 PM
  3. J frame 22 balks on one cyclinder
    By max503 in forum S&W - Gunsmithing
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 03-17-2012, 09:31 PM
  4. I cannot get the cyclinder to swing out on a model 1905 4th variation
    By Blackjack in forum New Members Introduction
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 01-13-2012, 09:03 PM
  5. Why it's so difficult......
    By chutch in forum The Gallery
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 07-07-2009, 04:25 AM

Search tags for this page

smith and wesson cylinder hard to open

Click on a term to search for related topics.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.3
Copyright © 2019 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
SmithandWessonForums.com is not affiliated with Smith & Wesson. We are an enthusiast site and fans of Smith & Wesson Firearms. To visit the official Smith & Wesson site, click here: Smith-Wesson.com.