Model 10 M&W postwar question

[dabre]

I have a revolver marked 38 S&W CGT on the barrel. I need to know which number is the real serial number. There is a 6digit number on the cylinder. (769xxx).
There is a four digit number on the yoke and same number on frame behind yoke. 9casting number?) There is no number on frame under the grips but there is a weird number on the butt.
It looks like a backward E then three B's followed by two numbers. Which is the real serial number. I often change out the cylinder for a 38 special cylinder. This has no number.
Gun is registered by number on cylinder. When exchanged serial number ?????.
Any info greatly appreciated

[Injunbro]

The serial # is on the butt & the gun should be registered by this # in places that require it... serial #'s are put on the frame of the gun, not parts that can be swapped. The last few digits of the serial # are often on other parts of the gun, the other #'s are casting #'s and other meaningless assembly #'s. The model number might or might not be on the crane along w/ other meaningles #'s. Hope this helps.

[azmick]

It may not be a Smith and Wesson revolver

[carl418]

It may not be a Smith and Wesson revolver

That's what I was thinking...

[dabre]

This revolver has all the markings of Smith and Wesson. It is way to easy to say it is not a Smith.
The serial number is stamped on the butt. It just seemed to be a weird number.
Again backward 3 possibly 888 or (BBB) followed by two digits.
Can any one help to clear up this issue?

[ar15ed]

welcome to the forum! a few pics would really be helpful!

[FlaRon]

dabre welcome to the forum.

You first posted it was a Model 10 M&W (no such S&W) now you have posted Model 10 M&P which is a S&W Model.

The people who are trying to help you are quite knowledgeable but they can only go on what you tell us without photos.

Why do you think it is post war and not pre war ? First WW or Second WW ?

.38 S&W CGT you say is on the barrel and not .38 Special CTG which is what S&W uses.

Round butt or square butt. Barrel length. There are so many variations to the .38 M&P Since the 1st Model in 1899 through both world wars.

This is why photographs are needed to properly identify your firearm.

We want to help but we need the proper information from you.

Regards,

FlaRon

[dabre]

Doing my research. The revolver is a pre model 10 (military and police) hand ejector model.
Model of 1905 4th change, 38 S&W special caliber.
It is a 6 shot with fluted barrel probably made about 1940.
I do have another cylinder to change it a a 38 special.

[azmick]

38 special and 38 S&W Special are the same cartridge. The 38 S&W (9X20R) and the 38 S&W Special (9X29R) are not the same cartridge.
In Europe, I would expect to see the 38S&W in this vintage revolver. The 38 S&W uses a .360 inch bullet while a 38S&W Special uses a .357 inch bullet. The typical 9MM is a .355 inch bullet.

[jhvaughan2]

Doing my research. The revolver is a pre model 10 (military and police) hand ejector model.
Model of 1905 4th change, 38 S&W special caliber.
It is a 6 shot with fluted barrel probably made about 1940.
I do have another cylinder to change it a a 38 special.

What you have is a K-200 38/200 British Service revolver - Basicly an M&P chambered for 38 S&W
Note the barrel has "38 S&W CTG" not "38 S&W Special CTG" The extra cylinder is for 38 special but I do not think this is a factory offering.
The Stocks are not original. If he rest of it is you should be able to find the SN on the bottom of the grip, on the flat portion of the underside of the barrel, and on the back side of the ejector star, and on the face of the cylinder. - The real one is on the grip as the other parts could have been switched. I'm guessing 769xxx is the s/n as it fits in the range of this

As to the wierdness on the butt can you make it out to 769XXX in any way? Maybe looking at it upside down?