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Smith Wesson model 48 K-22 which version was the best made?

41K views 36 replies 18 participants last post by  Layne12gun 
#1 ·
Hello to everyone, as I am on the market for model 48 22 magnum, and I am not very familiar with the gun ( I never had one) I would like to ask which variation ( I guess which dash number) was the very best mechanically produced. thank you !!
 
#2 ·
Welcome.

There really isn't any "Best" model. There are those that more desirable, more expensive, somewhat better estectis, some easier to find and therefore cheaper.... much depends upon what your needs are.

I have a couple of 48's from the later 1950's and early 1960's, but rarely shoot them. I find little to justify the additional expense of the .22 Magnum round. Mine are collectables.



If you want to shoot a K-22 maybe you should consider a .22 Long Rifle Model 17 instead. That havng been said, 48's from all eras can be good guns.

Drew
 
#5 ·
beegee.
I have owned 2 of them. They are gone now. As a shooting gun they are very dirty and require much more cleaning to keep running.
There are some, as Drew posted, that are very good ones to buy and keep.
Buy early ones and buy condition.
I don't know about the asthaphetics portion of gun buying, but I think it has something to do with LOOKIN GOOD.
Bill@Yuma
 
#6 ·
RdrBill said:
beegee.
I don't know about the asthaphetics portion of gun buying, but I think it has something to do with LOOKIN GOOD.
Bill@Yuma
LOOKIN' GOOD? Crap that leaves me the hell out.... ;)

Agreed that the ball powder used in at least some of the loadings will accumulate under the extractor and tie the gun up... I've not had this problem with any of the .22 Long Rifle rounds.
 
#10 ·
I'm with Drew here.
Mine is a 1960 M-48.
The bluing and fit-and-finish of that late-50's and early-60's era is unsurpassed.
Any and all .22 WMR's are problematic as to cleaning, and they have a tendency to be picky about what kind of ammunition produces the least amount of crud under the ejector star.
That being said, the ass-thetics speak for themselves!
nfiofnp
Don
 
#13 ·
Hello to everyone, as I am on the market for model 48 22 magnum, and I am not very familiar with the gun ( I never had one) I would like to ask which variation ( I guess which dash number) was the very best mechanically produced. thank you !!



Hello BeeGee
Welcome to the forum, Great first Post. The Model 48 is kind of the Red Headed Step child of the K-22 Models as most do not like to Pay for the Higher ammo prices of shooting them, so they are far less Popular than the Famous Model 17 K-22's. If you are looking at it from a stand point of collecting the Early No dash Models are tougher to find But Yield more collector Interest. They came out with the model 48 in 1959.




The First year models were a Four screw variation, which was the shortest Run configuration in the K-series revolvers. This time span was when S&W Brought back the High Polished bluing as a standard finish and they were Gorgeous examples. In This series there was about only Three years of Production of them before going to the Three screw configurations coming in the design change of the model 48-2 series in 1962. This in Turn makes the no dash 48 series and four screw examples harder to locate and very desirable.




The One shown below is a First Year model 48 Four screw revolver. It shipped in December 1959. Along about 1961 or So, S&W decided to offer an auxiliary Factory fitted .22 L. R. Cylinder for this model. You could have ordered one to accompany your model 48 at a small extra cost when it left the factory. To change over calibers from The .22 W.M.R. all one had to do was take out the most forward side Plate screw and remove the crane assembly, and replace the Magnum cylinder with the auxiliary .22 L. R. cylinder, then place the crane assembly back in the revolver and Place the side Plate screw back in.




Oddly not many came with the auxiliary .22 L. R. cylinder but they do come along at times as mine did. Mine would have not come with it back in 1959 as it was not offered, so it was sent back Later and fitted to my revolver. The auxiliary cylinder that mine has with it, has Left hand Threads as S&W changed the extractor Threads to eliminate the Loosening of the extractor rod. The Original magnum cylinder that came with my Gun has Right hand extractor threads which were correct back in 1959 time span.





The fit & Finish was super Nice on the No dash models of which I have Two shown below. Sticking spent shells have not been a problem in either of my model 48's as the time span when they were made S&W was still Burnishing the Internal cylinders which is a fancy name for Super Polishing them. Burnishing was a time Honored process S&W did on the K-22's and other revolvers to provide a smoother extraction of spent rounds, but later they stopped doing this as a Cost cutting measure, and we have seen Many Model 48's with sticky extraction because of it along with some K-22's having the same frustration issues.





Most of this can be taken care of by Polishing the Internal cylinder with some J-B Bore bright Paste compound on a .22 cotton cleaning swab by rotating it slowly with a battery drill until it shines from polishing. Ammo can also be the Culprit to this sticky extraction issue, but I have found if you use good ammo as CCI-Maxi Mags in your .22 Magnum, this is less prone to happen. I would suggest if you are going to Purchase a Model 48 that you try to get as close back to their original Build release date of 1959 as Possible as those one's seem to exhibit the best finish and fit, and I would Hold off on buying one till you Locate one with the Optional .22 L. R. Cylinder as it adds Much to the model and without it, they are just another .22 Magnum, But the addition of the .22L.R. cylinder will allow you to enjoy it in Both Calibers. I hope this helps, Hammerdown






 
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#15 ·
Gizamo said:
hammerdown,

How's the accuracy of the gun with the .22 LR cylinder in place? Does the gun shooter better groups with the Magnum cylinder?

giz

Hello Giz
I have only gotten to the Range once since I got it and it was a Rather Rushed visit. It shoots far better than I am able to hold as shown below. The Two calibers are shown on the Targets below with 6 shots each caliber and no adjustments to the rear sight's between either caliber. I see very Little difference accuracy wise between the calibers, S&W did a Good Job on this one. Ammo used was CCI -Mini-Mags in .22 L R. and CCI-Maxi-Mag's in the .22 Magnum round. Regards, Hammerdown







 
#17 ·
Thanks guys. I guess I will look for a 48-4
like every other gun manufacture, they improve the late versions for safety first, but on the other hand they would need save money somehow on the quality of the finish. probably the blueing on the early 48 should be really high quality. best thing would be to own them both , very early and a late one ...why not !!!
 
#18 ·
Re: Smith Wesson model 48 K-22 which version was the best m

A Model 48 with the 8 3/8-inch tube was my first handgun (bought for $103 in 1971) and the only Smith I have ever sold. Accurate revolver, but LOUD. And it has a tendency to accumulate powder residue under the ejection star. No real advantage over a M 18 or M 17, if a rimfire revolver is what you're after.
 
#19 ·
Re: Smith Wesson model 48 K-22 which version was the best m

The second minor issue with the Models 48 & 648 is that not only are they .22 magnum guns, but you can't shoot the .22 LR thru them with out a cylinder changover. Finding a .22 LR cylinder for one of these will be even more elusive than the revolvers themselves.
Like Drew stated, not a good value over the cost of the ammo.
From what I've read, the gains of the .22 magnum fired from a handgun are minimal over the high powered LR ammo's available today.
They will eventually gain in collector value due to the low volumes produced.

Now I'll add a question to the thread. Didn't S&W make a pistol that fires .22 Hornets?
That would seem to be a much more effective HP round.
 
#20 ·
Re: Smith Wesson model 48 K-22 which version was the best m

gearchecker said:
They will eventually gain in collector value due to the low volumes produced.

Now I'll add a question to the thread. Didn't S&W make a pistol that fires .22 Hornets?
That would seem to be a much more effective HP round.
Hello Greg
That is why I Bought one with the Extra .22 LR cylinder and they are a Lot cheaper to fire than the Jet Model .22 Magnum's. S&W did not make a K-Frame model in .22 Hornet but there was a Harvey-K-Chuk revolver made by a Gun smith in Connecticut back in the mid 1950's time span, called the .224 Harvey K-Chuk. This Gun was made by Jim Harvey and he used the Hornet case shortened for this as the cylinder of a standard .22 LR was not long enough to utilize the original Hornet case length.I have been told you Place the trimmed cases in his cylinder and fire them with just the primer to fire form to the cylinder dimmensions & there was only about 350 of them made and I sure would like to have one. He later sold his company to a Guy in New York and a few more were made but they Lacked the Harvey K-chuk stamps on the barrels. Here is some more information on Jim Harvey and his creation. To me, they were far better than the Jet idea as they did not have the sticky shell extraction issues that the Jet was well known for..




224 Harvey Kay-Chuk

Historical Notes:

The late Jim Harvey of Lakeville Arms co., Lakeville, Connecticut, developed this cartridge about 1956-57. It was intended for converted S&W K-22 revolvers. It is based on the K-Hornet wildcat cartridge, but there is also a 224 Kay-Chuk Jr., which is the standard 22 Hornet case trimmed back slightly. This cartridge is noted as being the inspiration for the Remington 22 Jet cartridge.

General Comments:

The idea of a high velocity 22 handgun cartridge appealed to no small number of handgun hunters. What they wanted was light recoil combined with flat trajectory. The 224 Kay-Chuk accomplished this better than any previous handgun cartridge and, in fact, is superior in performance to that developed by the S&W 22 Jet revolver. A light 37 grain bullet designed by the late Ken Bellah, a noted writer and firearms authority, is usually used. He did much to introduce the Harvey designed zinc base half jacketed revolver bullets. The 224 Kay-Chuk is one of the most effective small game and varmint cartridges available for the handgun. Unfortunately, it's a wildcat, hence not available on an over the counter, commercial basis. It has a straight body and sharp shoulder, unlike the long taper of the 22 Jet. Users of the 224 Kay-Chuk do not have the same extraction trouble and sticking cases that bother some 22 Jet users.


Source: Cartridges of the World


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


224 Harvey Kay-Chuk Reloading Data
Bullet (grs.) Powder / (grs.) MV ME Source
40 SP 2400 / 9.5 1652 254 n/a
40SP Unique / 5.0 1650 242 n/a
 
#21 ·
Re: Smith Wesson model 48 K-22 which version was the best m

I believe that one of those K-Chuk revolvers showed up at the local Cabela's about a year ago - but it was originally a M-48 instead of a M-17. Nobody in the store paid enough attention to it to see that it had been converted until I pointed out the reamed chambers and firing pin modification to CF. The head salesman in the gun room dashed over to the ammo aisles and proceeded to stick various cartridges in the cylinder to see what would fit. A .22 Hornet round chambered, so they re-marked the tag and sold it to someone as a .22 Hornet revolver. I don't remember noticing that the Hornet was too long, because he never closed the cylinder...

Also, the barrel was re-stamped with only a "CF" that nicely matched the other bbl. cal. markings.

xtm
 
G
#22 ·
Re: Smith Wesson model 48 K-22 which version was the best m

I am currently holding a 48x-4 in my hand. I have owned it for a number of years, and can find no fault with it. Accurate and excellent trigger. It is one that I shall pass on to someone who appreciates such things.
 
#23 ·
Re: Smith Wesson model 48 K-22 which version was the best m

I suppose I'm lucky, as I have a no dash 4 inch 48, with a factory fitted, numbered to the gun 22 lr cylinder. The mag cylinder almost never get used. I actually was looking for a model 18, and stumbled across this one. Had to buy it.
Tom
 
#24 ·
Re: Smith Wesson model 48 K-22 which version was the best m

shotguntom said:
I suppose I'm lucky, as I have a no dash 4 inch 48, with a factory fitted, numbered to the gun 22 lr cylinder. The mag cylinder almost never get used. I actually was looking for a model 18, and stumbled across this one. Had to buy it.
Tom

Hello Tom
You are very lucky those Optional cylinders are not Very common. I have been told that if the Optional cylinder is serial number stamped to the Gun then it left the factory with the gun when it shipped new. Many like mine were returned for a fitting of that .22 L. R. cylinder, and of those I have not seen any serial number stamped.. I sure would like to see a Picture of it... Hammerdown
 
#25 ·
Re: Smith Wesson model 48 K-22 which version was the best m

Hey all,just picked up my 3rd s&w,it's a md 48-2 8 and3/8th barrel.Only problem is the guy had it nickle plated.Looks great,but what does that do to the value?Ican shoot three cylenders before it needs cleaning.The grips are target,but are not smooth below the hammer on the left side,which leads me to belive they were not original.Ipaid $450.for it.Any info would be helpfull,thanx
 
#26 ·
Re: Smith Wesson model 48 K-22 which version was the best m

Smithgunsrule said:
Hey all,just picked up my 3rd s&w,it's a md 48-2 8 and3/8th barrel.Only problem is the guy had it nickle plated.Looks great,but what does that do to the value?Ican shoot three cylenders before it needs cleaning.The grips are target,but are not smooth below the hammer on the left side,which leads me to belive they were not original.Ipaid $450.for it.Any info would be helpfull,thanx




Smithgunsrule
Congratulations on your Purchase it sounds like you got a sweet deal on your model 48. If you Bought the gun as a serious collectible the Re-finish on average will Knock down the guns value around 50%. If you bought it as a shooter it really does not matter and the bottom line is if it looks good to you, and you feel the price was fair that you paid that is all that really matters.


Since you asked this in your post here I will answer your question honest & fair. In the realm of a refinish no matter what I think it look's like, I don't knock a man's gun, to knock a man's gun is just plain Rude in my book, and other than showing one's ignorance by doing that, what can be gained by that ? so if you like it, & it looks good to you and the price that you gave seems fair, that is all that really matters here. I also have seen many Refinished by the factory that some supposed serious collectors hold at a higher regard as they feel the factory does better work, but plain and simple no matter who did the work a Refinish is just that, a refinish, and if a gun is showing high signs of wear or finish damage a refinish is always better to look at than guns that have barrel burn or high edge wear on them.





On the subject of sticky extraction it could be it has slightly rough cylinder chambers causing the shells to stick which Later model 48's and model 17's meaning the dash series gun's, are notorious for. The Factory used to Burnish all cylinder's which is a fancy name for super polish but as a cost cutting measure this process was ceased. I would suggest you get some J. B. Bore bright to Polish the cylinder chambers with. I use a cotton bore swab placed on a battery drill to Polish the chambers. Turn it at a medium speed and check it as you go to see if it is getting smoother. The J. B Bore bright will Polish the chambers but not ruin them if you watch what you are doing you can se the change taking place. Once you reach the level of the internal cylinder looking shiny you have it where it ought to be. On the Burnt powder under the extractor, this will not cause the revolver's cylinder revolution cycle to bind up.




The only way I have found around this is to find good ammo that is less dirty in nature. I always' use CCI Maxi-Mag ammo in my model 48's as it seems to be the cleanest ammo out there. Try that to see if it corrects your problem, I know it work's for me. The grips sound like they have been altered but there are many out there used that have not been altered so if it bother's you, get another pair for it. I myself, like target grips on any target revolver as they seem to give me a better balance and feel. I hope this helps and welcome to the forum... Hammerdown
 
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