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Thread: S&W 32 Regulation Police

  1. #11
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    Waidmann, I have not found a "M&P" logo marked anywhere on the frame.

    The markings I have found on the revolver are...
    Serial Number on Butt: 281635
    Serial Number under Right Grip: 281635 Note: This is in pencil.
    Serial Number under Barrel: B 281635 Note: Was told B indicates Blue Finish
    Frame Number on frame side of Crane: 8581
    Frame Number on frame behind Ejector Rod: 8581
    Top of Barrel: Note: Stamp marks are before and after these words.
    Smith & Wesson [Stamp] Springfield Mass. U.S.A. PAT'D Mar.27.94
    May.21.95.Aug.4.96.Dec.22.96.Oct.8.01.Dec.17.01.Fe b.6.06.Sep.14.09
    Left Side of Barrel: SMITH & WESSON
    Right Side of Barrel: 38 S. & W. SPECIAL CTG. Note: Stamp marks are before and after these words.
    Left side frame, under pistol grip: 67
    Right side frame, under pistol grip: No Markings

  2. #12
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    Waldman, an honest and gentle question: Why would one not shoot jacketed bullets ? ? It would seem that the 110 grain HPHBMJ Winchester in .357 would cause less pressure than the 158 grain lead, but I would suppose that the 158 would be much more accurate . . .

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by banger View Post
    Waldman, an honest and gentle question: Why would one not shoot jacketed bullets ? ? It would seem that the 110 grain HPHBMJ Winchester in .357 would cause less pressure than the 158 grain lead, but I would suppose that the 158 would be much more accurate . . .
    Heat treating of the cylinders did not start until the 1920s. These were ment for black powder cartridges, not higher pressure smokless powder. The pressure curve of smokeless powder is pretty sharp when compaired to black powder's long push. There were many guns made by S&W well into the 1920s that were not made for smokeless powder and many were turned into paper weights because S&Ws warning was not heeded. It may have been somewhat like the warning against using +P loads in revolvers but, S&W did warn against using smokeless powder,,,
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    My friends call me 'Mick'
    Save the Second Amendment, take a kid shooting!

  4. #14
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    azmick,

    I posed that specific question about ammunition to S&W, in my letter to them that accompanies my request for information, and they cited the stamp marks on the barrel which is "38 S. & W. SPECIAL CTG.". Now I understand that they made a 38 S&W cartriage as well as a 38 S&W SPECIAL cartriage.

    While I've not been looking at the specific information on this revolver for very long, I have not heard of nor read of a specific S&W warning that you call out. Do you have a reference to this warning or know where I can find it? I'd like to see what they specifically said.

    I've search on 38 S. & W. SPECIAL CTG. and it keeps coming up with references to the cartrige origins and the early standard loads with smokeless powder. This manufacturer's warning would be helpful in understanding the caution and recommendations.

    Thanks!

  5. #15
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    S&W officially discourages +P ammo in their pre-model guns. We have had a number of debates regarding old sevice ammo pre-SAAMI v. current +P. I suppose personally I would take attitude many did with the old J-frames, carry +P but otherwise restrict the diet. Jacketed bullets will accelerate the wear of any barrel more so the older ones. The sights are typically regulated for 158 grain lead, moving at 770-850 fps. The development of the .38 Special goes from 1899 with nothing more than a stretched .38 Colt in blackpowder (or equivalent) to the introduction of the Heavy Duty (1930's) N-frames with 38/44 designated loads that exceed current .357 standards.


    A number of cracked forcing cones and bulged barrels testify to some bad choices. Some of these issues led to the realitively recent evolution of the L-frame.


    I'd better stop before I exceed my limited knowlege of the specific technical aspects but it is my understanding that light jacketed bullets get the credit for current damage on modern revolvers.
    Last edited by Waidmann; 02-16-2012 at 03:16 PM.
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  6. #16
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    The Logo

    The logo between the grip and cylinder. Usually large if on the right; small if on the left. Often made during WWI if missing.
    Sseriespost-war.jpg


 

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