Problem with M&P 15 Sport

[OldCavSoldier]

I'm a very strong S&W customer, but, for shooting .223Rem/5.56x45, I'm gonna stay with my Mini-14, thank you very much. It doesn't look as cool as an AR or an M&P15, but, I have NEVER had any problems shooting even one of the approximately 10,000 rounds I have shot through it.

[gearchecker]

I'm not going to be a wet blanket here, but there's a basic rule taught about properly lubricating a weapon that should be followed regularly.

If it slides, use a high quality grease. (The entire Bolt carrier group, and the receiver upper where the BCG slides should be lightly greased and not oiled.)

If it rotates or pivots, oil it. (The hinges, springs, trigger group.)

Oiling a firearm to "Run it wet" or to break it in, is not the recommended method to lubricate it.
The owners manuals to nearly every firearm made shows points of lubrication, and instruction on how to do it properly.
Tere are places to grease and other places to oil.
I've never seen a single manufacturers document that would indicate the weapon should be "run wet" to break it in.

Regards,
Gearchecker

[Gary]

I have narrowed my trigger issue down. Maybe you guys can help. What is happening is the trigger disconnect is not letting the hammer get back to a ready to fire position. The disconnect is hanging up on the hammer itself. It shoots sometimes and sometimes not. I have watched a number of videos but have not found one on this issue. It looks like a simple fix it if I just knew which part to polish or? When it happens the hammer is then stuck all the way back being held there but the disconnect. I have shot about 400 rounds. All else works well. Any help would be appreciated.

[mmitch]

Gary,

So, apparently, there is a mechanical problem with your particular rifle, not a "break-in" concern. Were it, mine, it would go back, under warranty. Logistics not withstanding.

'checker, I'm with you in most cases re: oil vs. grease in the applications you mention. But, in my, and many other's experience, pertaining to the AR-15 rifle, the "run-it-wet" rule during break-in, seems to be the panacea regaedless of verbage from a manufacturer. This has been my experience with that pattern of rifle, from numerous manufacturers. Not tryin' to be obtuse, Amigo!

Mike

[gearchecker]

Mike,
No issues with your response, and especially with your experience in these issues either. I've herad many operators talk about running them wet to break them in.
I guess if you try one method over the other with these finicky little beasts, one will surely work. AR's always seem to be fussy to get broken in.
Mine had a burr on the trigger or somewhere else in the trigger group. It took about a hundred rounds shot thru it before the burr broke free.
When I pulled the trigger, there was a spot in the pull I felt it "Catch", then if I continued to pull the trigger I would feel it break free.
I ran a mag full thru it as fast as I could pull the trigger, and somewhere in the middle of the mag the problem disappeared. No issues have shown up since then.

All is good my friend,
Gregory

[mmitch]

'checker,

Aye, Aye, Mate!

Mike

[Gary]

Well guys I think I have found/fixed the problem. I separated the lower from upper and when checking out the parts in the area of the trigger, hammer and disconnector I found that a primer had blown off a casing and what was left of the primer was under the mechanism the disconnector sits in and was keeping the disconnector from doing it’s job. In other words the primer was keeping it form moving down as it should to release the hammer properly. How wild is that? Ever hear of a primer coming out of the casing? And it was Lake City ammo, not junk.

I have my fingers crossed that the situation is under control. I shot another 30 rounds and it was working fine.

I learned a lot about AR trigger assemblies in the course of al this. Thanks for the advise.

[mmitch]

Gary,

Gotta LOVE a happy enging!
I've had primers let-loose, but never (knock-wood) tie-up the fcg. Way to perserver, adapt, and overcome. You da MAN!

Mike

[Gary]

I'm a very strong S&W customer, but, for shooting .223Rem/5.56x45, I'm gonna stay with my Mini-14, thank you very much. It doesn't look as cool as an AR or an M&P15, but, I have NEVER had any problems shooting even one of the approximately 10,000 rounds I have shot through it.

I have a newer Mini 14, the stainless Ranch model. I just ordered a picatinny rail for it and plan to get a red dot on it in a few weeks. It's nice old school but now that I have a AR, I'm really liking the ergonomics on a AR or M4. I own a ranch and the Mini is a great rifle to have around. I am lucky enough to have my own shooting range, not really a range but a real safe area I can shoot 100 yards to sight in rifles and practice with handguns. Hearing firearms going off around this area is normal as a sheriff who is also on the SWAT team lives in front of me and a LE behind me. The people to the side are expert target shooters with single six's, one in each hand. The other side is an organic vineyard so no worries there. I guess you might say this area is firearms friendly. We all have CCWs too....

[Gary]

Gary,

Gotta LOVE a happy enging!
I've had primers let-loose, but never (knock-wood) tie-up the fcg. Way to perserver, adapt, and overcome. You da MAN!

Mike

Thanks. The learning curve is steep but fun at the same time. It's always nice if you have other firearms to use if one is down. I was not liking the idea of sending it back or buying a $200 trigger for it. I also see a lot of people are using the stock trigger but bending the springs and polishing parts to make it shoot easier and get the pull down to about 5 pounds. I think I will not mess with that for now. I like a heavier pull while I'm still learning the ins and outs of this unit..

I read not to get the melonite barrel too hot for longer barrel life being that it is not chromed. Anyone know about how many rounds can go down the tube before it’s wearing out, assuming it’s cleaned properly and good ammo is used?