59 series complete disassembly thread writeup w/pics

[prsabordo]

Hey everyone, the time has finally come to do this writeup. First off, I am not held responsible for any damages or malfunctions you might experience through this process. This is just a writeup of how i learned how to disassemble my firearm because i couldn't afford and still can't afford a gunsmith to do a trigger job. Through research i found the majority of the gritty-ness of pull was from the draw bar assembly having friction against the walls of the frame and the drawbar plunger spring housing being coarse and rough through manufacturing. Plus i like learning about mechanics of how things work so it kind of comes from previous experience. Tools you will need: assorted sizes of flat screwdrivers, punches, hammer, White cloths to place firearm and parts, dental picks, needle nose pliers, 1k grit sandpaper, and optional long thin diamond files. You can get all this at harbor freight for cheap. So here we go!!!
1. Unload the firearm and remove mag and perform normal fiedstrip of top slide. Set top slide aside. Remove grips.

2. Remove pin from back plate/hammer spring housing. Then use punch and insert into bottom of plate hole, and pull backplate away from frame. Note, the backplate is under tension from main hammer spring so be careful upon removal.

3. Remove backplate and main hammer spring. (stock lbs is 20-22)

4. Begin to remove side plate assembly as one unit (with sear pin).

Be ready to cover top part of frame to cover firing pin safety lever, sear safety lever, and mag disconnect/ejector lever for there are little springs underneath.


Remove firing pin and sear safety levers FIRST and keep them together in the same way. Then remove mag disconnect/ejector lever.


5. Then remove springs, keep them with the appropriate levers.

6. After side plate is removed with sear pin, sear will easily fall out, catch it and remember which way it faces.


7. Next, pull out hammer assembly from top of frame.

8. Next for the disconnector assembly, note its orientation and how it sits underneath the draw bar assembly. Simply turn frame upside down and use pick to turn disconnector assembly and out from place.



9. Next for the drawbar assembly. Note the end of the drawbar will have to slide under the beaver-tail of the frame. First punch out pin holding trigger assembly.

Note, pin is under slight pressure from drawbar plunger spring, so once pin is punched out, whole assembly trigger and drawbar will move back, see picture differences. No worries though.

10. Next pull drawbar assembly out under beaver-tail and out from frame. Notes sides of drawbar will have friction against sidewalls of frame, don’t worry. However REMEMBER its orientation.

11. Next remove drawbar plunger and spring using pick or other tool.

12. Next remove trigger from top of frame. Note process of removal requires little jimmying. Move up first, then top of trigger tilt forwards toward front of frame while bottom part of trigger goes toward back of frame.


13. Optional step. If you want to remove magazine catch, push down on little tab on the side of the magazine nut while simultaneously unscrewing nut with appropriate flat screwdriver

Other than that you are down with dis-assembly. Awesome easy parts over. Here is what your parts should look like in its correct orientation facing same direction as frame.

Now you can polish whatever parts you want. I polished the inside of the drawbar plunger spring housing, first using appropriate size file then 1k grit sandpaper taped on cleaning rod from gun cleaning kit and attached other end to drill. I then wet-sanded exterior sides of drawbar assembly with 1k grit sandpaper and warm soapy water.


After you have done necessary cleaning and polishing, time for reassembly.
14. Install trigger first, then drawbar plunger spring.
15. BEGIN TO INSTALL drawbar assembly.

Now comes the tricky part. The top part of the trigger (part that hooks) goes under the drawbar assembly when the drawbar is being positioned. I'll walk you through it, it gets a little tricky and you will need both hands.
16. Position trigger to go under draw bar by making bottom part of trigger be as far forward and up as possible.

17. Now while supporting trigger position with one hand, maneuver and position drawbar assembly with drawbar plunger spring (there is a notch in front of the drawbar assembly for the spring to sit).



18. Then after pushing drawbar assembly forward enough, bring trigger up behind drawbar but in front of the brass (copper idk what it is) spring. So trigger (hooks) will be in-between the front part of draw bar and brass colored spring.




19. After its all in position, the trigger should be holding the draw bar assembly in place, which then you can install the trigger pin.
20. Do trigger and drawbar function test to see if it moves accordingly. While you pull and release the trigger, drawbar should slide back and forth. Hard part is over. Its a cake walk from here.
21. Next install disconnector assembly under tang of drawbar.



22. Next install sear and sear pin ONLY, do not include side plate assembly.



23. Position hammer assembly

24. Next position lever springs

25. Next position and hold in place magazine disconnect lever/ejector. Align mag disconnect/ejector lever hole and hammer hole.



26. Next BEGIN TO INSTALL slide plate assembly. Install through mag disconnect/ejector and hammer but NOT all the way through frame


27. Next position sear and firing pin levers. Note sear release lever will need to be tilted forward in order to install. Align both lever holes and then push side plate assembly pin all the way through frame.



28. Clip in sear pin with side plate assembly

29. Do several function tests of trigger, hammer, and levers. If mag disconnect lever is down, hammer can not fall while pulling trigger.
30. After everything passes, install hammer spring (16lb spring from wolff)


31. Install backplate with hammer spring assembly, will require force to position into frame. Install top part of backplate to beavertail first, acts as a guide.

32. Install backplate pin

33. Install grips, lubricate where necessary, and reassembly top slide. Do function tests and you are DONE!!!! Congratulations. See , not too hard at all.


I wish everyone best of luck and i hope this write up helps. The new Wolff 16lb spring helps A LOOOOOOTTTTT, i will take it to the range sometime and see if affects normal operations. Hopefully i won't get light primer hits, if i do, i'll move up to 17lbs and so on until no problems. I highly recommend this spring kit from WOLFF, cost $12.99 shipped SKU #26581. Also the polishing helped A LOT, no more gritty feel. Nice and smooth all the way through. Also it helped a lot disassembling and cleaning all the parts, nooks, and crannys since it never had a full cleaning job when my uncle owned it, felt a big difference in smoothness of operation. However, on my top slide my ambidextrous safety (right side with screw) still came loose after lock-tighting it. I am sick of it and i am going to try and find a single side safety lever. I will also do a thread write up on how to fully disassemble top slide once i get another safety. Its much easier to do than the bottom half of the gun.

[gearchecker]

I'm glad I can afford my gunsmith! He's saved my bacon too many times for me to count.
That's an excellent write up. Especially for those that are braver than me and willing to tackle such a project!

Regards,
~gearchecker~

[19and41]

That is an excellent writeup and the illustrations set it far above any descriptions I have seen! It is easy to go astray on reassembly and the instructions has that worked out well. You and that pistol make beautiful music together!

[Pinduck]

Excellent Article! Great Pics.

[Hunter]

Excellent write up thanks for sharing it!

[500 Magnum Nut]

Sticky the thread!

[Sebago Son]

Nicely Done! I can peel a Smith revolver behind my back in my sleep, but I've always shied away from deep detailing a Smith autopistol. That may change after I go through this again stap by step.

A Fine Job and Thank You for putting this up....

Drew

[LeMat]

Those are simply the best pictures for the dis/reassembly of any firearm I have ever seen.

Excellant job!

[prsabordo]

Update: took the 659 out with a few friends over Memorial day weekend and shot 100rds of Tulammo from Walmart. Experienced two light primer hits from single action firing so i replaced my 16lb reduced power hammer spring from Wolff with a 17lb hammer spring. Other than that gun ran great, smooth and accurate and my friends really liked it. I will update the results next time i go out.

[Jim]

Great pictures and write up


Just to clear things up on item 18


18. Then after pushing drawbar assembly forward enough, bring trigger up behind drawbar but in front of the brass (copper idk what it is) spring. So trigger (hooks) will be in-between the front part of draw bar and brass colored spring.


brass (copper idk what it is) = That spring is the trigger play spring