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  1. #1
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    My new Bodyguard question

    I have a 649-2 (.38 Special) that I like so much I picked up a used 649-3 (.357 Magnum). There appear to be more changes than just the cylinder and barrel (went from 1 7/8" to 2 1/8"): both are pre lock, the firing pin is attached to the hammer on the .38 while two separate pieces on the .357.

    First question: the hammer and trigger appear to be stainless steel on the .38, at the very least both are silver in color. On the .357 they are more dark gray than silver and I do not think any amount of elbow grease would change that. I would judge the double action trigger pull on the .357 to be greater than 12 pounds, it is certainly much heavier than the .38. Is this necessary for the .357, or could the odd colored pieces indicate some type of trigger job? Also the hammer spur is shorter (less meat for the thumb to grab) and seems much sharper on the .357, this coupled with the heavier spring makes it cut into my thumb, not to the point of drawing blood but it is certainly sore afterwards. So are these original parts? If so is there a replacement hammer and what is the best way to lighten the trigger?

    Second Question: The cylinder tends to catch on three to four of the chambers when trying to open it whether or not it is loaded. I looked at the FAQ and 500 Magnum Nut lists a number of possibilities but I do not know how to eliminate some of them. It is a pretty tight fit, I do not see any wear on the forcing cone, or on the rear of the frame except where the center pin contacts the frame. To my untrained eye I think the bolt is not pushing the center pin quite far enough to clear the hole without it catching a bit, but then again if I advance the cylinder one chamber at a time I can find one where it pops out nice and smooth. I took off the side plate, noticed the bolt is gray like the hammer and trigger, and the face appears flush against the frame when pressed forward, I can not detect if the bolt pin is any closer to flush on either model, though the wear mark from the center pin makes a smooth arc from the center of the bolt pin to the edge and accross the frame on the .38. The arc does not appear as defined on the bolt pin of the .357 but that may or may not just be my eyes. Any ideas?

    -Steve

  2. #2
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    Re: My new Bodyguard question

    I hate to ask, but can you post some photos of your revolver parts so that we can compare the differences to give you a better indication.
    Please use your own photos and not copyrighted ones - Unless you state where you got the pic and/or if it's a stock photo. (Dave-Just covering the copyright bases here )

    I'm sure we can give you the straight dope with some pics.
    Gearchecker
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  3. #3
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    Re: My new Bodyguard question

    I was hoping to shoot it on the range first

    The first two are of the trigger, 649-2 on the left and the 649-3 on the right.




    A couple shots of the hammers, .38 still on the left:

    The serations are all that clear the shroud for the thumb to grab. There are 5 full and two partial on the .38 and just the four on the .357


    This is the wear arc on the frame of the .38. Stop brushing your monitor that is pocket carry lint


    On the .357, with the aid of the camera, I can now see it is visible on the bolt pin. I polished it a bit to see if I could find any evidence of a burr.

  4. #4
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    Re: My new Bodyguard question

    Looking at the pics you did such a nice job with (except for the pocket lint - lol)
    My best guess is the 649-3 has a MIM hammer and trigger. It's looks exactly like one of mine and mine is MIM. I don't have any experience with the cylinder dragging. It looks pretty tight to drag enough to burnish the frame the way it does.
    It's not uncommon for the different hammer styles on similar guns. It's all part of the little differences thats indicative of the dash numbers. I'm pretty sure they are both factory hammers, original to your revolvers.
    You have 2 very nice wheelguns there. I'm sure you'll enjoy them and they will last you a lifetime.

    You might choose to send the .357 into S&W service and have them go thru it to see if the cylinder dragging can be resolved. Give the S&W Service Center a call asking for warranty work on the cylinder drag. I'm pretty sure they'll send you a Fedex shipping label for free. They did for me, and many others here on the forum have had S&W do the same for them too.
    Teach them the truth, and let them sort thru the cobwebs of liberalism that have infested their minds.
    When the time comes that I don't want a new gun, call the undertaker!
    When they come for your guns, give them the ammo first!
    .45 ACP, Because shooting twice is just plain silly!


    http://www.corneredcat.com
    http://www.takdriver.com



  5. #5
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    Re: My new Bodyguard question

    very nice guns especially when they dont have the internal lock

  6. #6
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    Re: My new Bodyguard question

    Quote Originally Posted by gearchecker
    It looks pretty tight to drag enough to burnish the frame the way it does.
    The burnishment is from polishing, I was trying to see if it was hanging up on something. The wear mark did not photograph well but is similar to the arc on the .38. I may give S&W a call, part of me is hoping to run into someone more familiar with Smiths that may take a quick look and diagnose the problem on the spot. I guess my biggest fear is that I send it to the factory and they return a 649-5 and call it a day.

    JOHN and gearchecker, thanks for the compliments, I did not buy them to be safe queens. The original intent was to get a nightstand gun but they will be experiencing a lot more pocket lint.

  7. #7
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    Re: My new Bodyguard question

    well at least you know the lint will burn away when you fire the gun

  8. #8
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    Re: My new Bodyguard question

    The sticking is with the ejector rod or center pin. Make sure the ejector rod is tight. If it is in fact tight, use a file and lightly file the end of the ejector rod down a couple strokes. Hold it square and take a little off the end. The sticking will be fixed. Go easy, check your progress often.

    The easiest way to lighten the hammer is to change the rebound spring to something a little lighter. Original is 18 lbs so put a 14-15 lb one in. Also use a stone and stone the knurl on the end of the hammer spur. It won't be so sharp.
    NRA Benefactor Member

  9. #9
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    Re: My new Bodyguard question

    Quote Originally Posted by 500 Magnum Nut
    Make sure the ejector rod is tight.
    That was the first thing I checked. Would the center rod length be the problem if only four of the cylinders stick?

    I took both revolvers to the range today, I had some 125gr JHP .357 rounds, and some 158gr lead round nose for the .38. The two guns fired virtually the same, the stock sights are much sharper on the newer version. At fifteen to twenty feet five rounds left a nice tight group so it is a keeper.

    I did stop by a local gunsmith after the range, he is going to take a look at it and let me know if it is minor or if it should go back to S&W.

  10. #10
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    Re: My new Bodyguard question

    Maybe there is a burr on the end. The file removes the burr. Bottom line is the center pin is too short to effectively push the forward lug out of the way. So to lightly file the ejector rod fixes it up.
    NRA Benefactor Member


 

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