LinkBack URL
About LinkBacks
Reply With QuoteWell, I got anxiousThe mod was quite quick and simple so I went ahead and removed them. the trigger seems much better now and I can always replace the springs if, I have any problems. I'll post if any problems.
Has anyone, tried this mod and had success without any light strikes, failure to reset, fte ftf, etc. after shooting quite a few rounds? I thought about trying this mod since the gun was bought used so, there's no warranty to worry about being voided. Thanks!
http://www.thefirearmsforum.com/showthread.php?t=53874
Well, I got anxious
This should help you.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=86yn1zCB ... re=channel
I did this mod to my sigma 40. Easy to do i also replaced the heavy outer spring with one from a mechanical pencil. After one shot, im not sure of the termonology, but the bar attached to the trigger that catches the pin to fire the gun. Well after the first shot that pin popped out. Took the mechanism apart again and placed the pin back in and it popped out again just dry firing. I don't know if the spring that i put in isn't strong enough to keep pressure on it or what, but if you releive pressure on the piece that the pin is inserted through the pin pops out. Any other suggestions. It did however lower the trigger pull.
I did this mod today and then went to the range and shot 250 rounds out of my sigma 40VE. The trigger pull is much better and my cluster was immediately improved. I did have about 4 - 5 failure to loads. Not a real big deal, just pulled back on the slide, let go and ready to fire again. Just not real comforting if I needed it in a self defense situationI have been researching this and there are a couple of more likely culprits in my opinion. The only suspicion I have is that this has not happened before. (although I have only shot about 100 - 150 rounds prior to today). I am VERY happy with the modification and will try a couple of the other suggestions to fix the ftl situation.
Why try to fix something that isn't broke?
The pin is in backwards. If you are looking at the gun from the back, the narrow end of the pin needs to be sticking out the right side of the sear assembly.Originally Posted by S&W all the way
1) Take the pin out
2) take the sear assembly out
3) insert the narrow end of the pin into the hole on the left side, This is the larger hole.
4) the pin will not want to go all the way thru at first, you need to wiggle the sear around a little bit to get the pin to push thru.
5) what holds the pin in the sear assembly is the black sear block when the sear assembly is put together. The left side of the sear aseembly should be flush with the pin.
6) put it back together and dry fire a few times.
warning: if you put the narrow end of the pin into the small hole (right side) when the slide is racked the pin will fall out.
Warning II: The trigger will be lighter at first, when the gun gets to be broken in, the trigger will not reset all the time, when it get to be broken in a little more this will happen more and more.
Real Fix: put the outer spring back on. Polish the sear assembly to a mirror finish, polish the trigger bar to a mirror finish all around, even the edges. In the end you will have a 6lb trigger that is as smooth as a knife sliding thru warm butter and a reliable gun.
Warning III: do not use springs from a mech pencil, they are not designed for the amount of stress or heat the gun puts out. if you do the spring will melt to some parts of your gun and yo u will ruin the gun.
800 rounds since this mod. Had some light strikes the second time out. I had never cleaned the striker channel and this turned out to be the cause. Last time out 1 stovepipe, 1 light strike, both due to my limp wristing. 1 failure to reset due to my not letting the trigger go all the way forward before pulling it again. Trigger pull is about 6 pounds and smooth. Will keep you posted.
Bill
Posting Permissions