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  1. #1
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    Cylinder release sticking

    Fired my 629 Classic today and cylinder would stick so I couldn't open it with fingers. Had to use plastic handle of screwdriver to open latch. Ejector rod is snug and is clean beneath the ejector head. The latch as always been a little catchy but would always open. Any advise on what the problem could be and fix.

    Thanks,
    Joe

  2. #2
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    Joe,

    With the cylinder swung-out, does the release still bind?
    While you have it swung open, give the cylinder a good spin, does it exhibit any run-out? does it wobble? If so the rod may be bent.
    You may, also, need to get at the bolt to see if there is any debris or other flotsam fetched-up in there.

    Mike

  3. #3
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    Hello Joe (Jace) and welcome to the forum.

    Mike has given you some great advice.......those are the things to check.

    Even more basic though...................make sure the ejector rod threads are snug (haven't loosened up).

    Best Regards,

    Geezer
    If lawyers are disbarred and clergymen are defrocked, shouldn't it follow that cowboys would be deranged?

  4. #4
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    The cylinder release is free with cylinder out. The ejector rod has only a slight amount of run-out if any. Cylinder has no run-out. The cylinder pin? that goes into the breech or frame that provides lock-up is sticky. Once pressed a time or 2, it is then smooth for a bit and becomes sticky again.

    Ejector rod is snug.

    Like I said in my first post, it has always since new has been sticky, but not to the point of not being able to release.

    Thanks,

    Joe
    Last edited by Jace; 06-28-2012 at 07:21 PM.

  5. #5
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    Joe,

    Okay, here's my best guess, If you're running the gun "dry", then lube the heck out of it (not with WD-40)!
    If you have some spray Rem-Oil or CLP, I would soak it, then let it run out. This may carry the offending gunk out of the mechanism. Work the release while applying the lube.
    If that doesn't fix it, you are probably going to have to pop the sideplate off, pull out the hammer/mainspring and get to the bolt. If you have not done any of this before, it may be time to send it to Springfield or find a good local pro gunsmith. There may be a burr on the bolt, or (?).

    Let's hope you just have a gunk/cleaning problem.

    Mike
    Last edited by mmitch; 06-28-2012 at 07:26 PM.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by mmitch View Post
    Joe,

    Okay, here's my best guess, If you're running the gun "dry", then lube the heck out of it (not with WD-40)!
    If you have some spray Rem-Oil or CLP, I would soak it, then let it run out. This may carry the offending gunk out of the mechanism. Work the release while applying the lube.
    If that doesn't fix it, you are probably going to have to pop the sideplate off, pull out the hammer/mainspring and get to the bolt. If you have not done any of this before, it may be time to send it to Springfield or find a good local pro gunsmith. There may be a burr on the bolt, or (?).

    Let's hope you just have a gunk/cleaning problem.

    Mike
    +1. I bought a 34 no dash that looked new but was VERY hard to open. A dose of CLP, and moving it back and forth, loosened it up.

  7. #7
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    IMHO stainless guns have 1 fault... they 'gaul' & bind if they get dry. I've had a few w/ similar issues as yours. All that was needed was to disassemble the ejector rod & lube up the innards w/ good gun oil & reassemle. Remember the threads are very fine & left hand thread. If you don't have the special tool to grip the knurled end of the rod wrap it in leather before gripping it to avaoid damage. If you remove the sideplate get the proper hollowground screwdriver 1st & don't pry it off. If you need some coaching don't be bashful.
    "He that hath no sword, let him sell his garment & buy one" Jesus - Luke 22:36

  8. #8
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    Mike, thanks for the help. The revolver is dry of lube which may have made the problem greater.

    Soon after buying the revolver, I stripped the cylinder and ejector assembly down and saw nothing wrong or felt nothing wrong, but I feel that is were the problem is. I'll try lubing the best I can. I have no gunsmith screwdrivers since last April a year ago's tornadoes. I'm getting back to normal now but not 100% yet.

    If lubing doesn't help, I'll see if I can talk gunsmith John Gallagher into looking at it for me. He has done several jobs for me and I know he doesn't like MIM parts.

    By the way, that 629 has been great at killing deer.

    Thanks,

    Joe

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jace View Post
    The cylinder release is free with cylinder out. The ejector rod has only a slight amount of run-out if any. Cylinder has no run-out. The cylinder pin? that goes into the breech or frame that provides lock-up is sticky. Once pressed a time or 2, it is then smooth for a bit and becomes sticky again.
    Joe, when you say Cylinder pin that goes into the breech or frame that provides lock-up, are you talking about the end of the ejector rod that is downstream (toward the front site/muzzle end) or the back-end where the rear of the cylinder locks onto the Cylinder Stop that is on the lower part of the frame? In either case, I'd try Mike's suggestion to really clean those two areas out with a cleaner and then thoroughly re-lube. If as you say it is 'smooth for a bit then gets sticky again', it sounds like the Cylinder Stop is at the correct height, but begins to bind, which could be caused by gunk. I'd try the cleaning/lube approach first and see what happens. Good luck! BC2
    “So son, explain again exactly why there’s a stripper in your bedroom?"

  10. #10
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    The bolt or cylinder stop is fine. It's the end of the ejector rod that helps provide lock-up at the rear of the cylinder window or frame. With the cylinder open, the pin or end of ejector rod at the center of the extractor is sticky to push in.

    I've got to go help someone in a bit and I'll stop to get some CLP or Rem Oil on the way back if I don't forget. Neglected to buy any for my new house.

    Thanks,

    Joe


 

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