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  1. #1
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    Victory Model Cylinder Binding

    Several years ago I purchased a S&W Victory Model revolver. I tried firing it at the range once only to discover that the action would start to bind after firing a couple of cylinders. If I let it cool down it would work OK again. I put the revolver in my safe and haven't touched it for years. I've recently developed an interest in bringing this old wheel gun back to life. Does anyone have an idea what may cause this and a suggestion for how I could remedy the problem? Thanks.

  2. #2
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    Hello Paul,
    Check the if the extractor knob has loosened up. This is a common occurance with the older S&W's at it will cause the binding cylinder as you described. Around 1960 or so, the original right hand thread was changed to left hand to help prevent this from happening. BTW welcome to the forum.
    John

  3. #3
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    Hi Paul and welcome to the forum:

    John is right (I agree), check the extractor............and if that's not the problem, I suggest you check the cylinder gap (gap space between the front of the cylinder and the forcing cone end of the barrel).

    Let us know what you find.........we've got some experts here (I'm not one of em) that will probably help you out.

    Best Regards,

    Geezer
    "Always ride the horse in the direction it's going."

    The Cowboy Way

  4. #4
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    ^+3

  5. #5
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    Thanks all for the tips. I hand tightened the ejector as best I could (Got about a quarter turn out of it.). How big is the cylinder gap supposed to be? I can see a visible gap with three of the chambers and no gap on the other three.

  6. #6
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    Hi Paul:

    That 1/4 turn of tightening to your ejector may well have fixed that problem......but you just said something that makes me wonder about something else.

    You said, "I can see a visible gap with three of the chambers and no gap on the other three.".............unless you've got an uneven build-up of residue on the front face of the cylinder, the gap should be the same (consistant) for all of the cylinder holes..........If indeed the gap varies between cylinder holes as you rotate the cylinder, something may be loose, bent, out of alignment or otherwise stressed.

    In answer to your question, "How big is the cylinder gap supposed to be?".............I believe it should be .004-.006"..........but our resident experts may correct that spec.

    Regards,

    Geezer
    Last edited by Oldgungeezer; 02-01-2012 at 01:33 PM.
    "Always ride the horse in the direction it's going."

    The Cowboy Way

  7. #7
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    Can you see rub marks on the front of the cylinder?
    NRA Benefactor

  8. #8
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    I want to hear more about the barrel to cylinder specs

    I measure every revolver that I get and the variances are surprising to me .

    I have guns that appear as new that vary from .004 to .007 .

    I have an accurate M15 shooter that is .005 .

    I have a tack driver M19 that is .010 .

    Now I haven't talked to S&W Customer Service , but I have seen several postings that say they have gotten responses that S&W considers .010 within spec .

    Comments ?
    Insight ?
    Advice ?


    Regards ,
    George
    First line of defense , my faithful Pit - don't mess with Mr. Kane !

    Lovin' it here in N. Ga - I wasn't born here , but I got here as fast as I could .


 

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