1911A1 link pin

[mmitch]

Here's my 1911A1. It's very, very accurate 5" gun, so I am quite reluctant to perform any major (or minor) parts changes. It has one small problem, in that the pin that holds the link onto the barrel falls completely-out when I feild strip for cleaning.
I have read that the fix is to stake that pin into the strut on the botom of the barrel.
Do I need to place the pointed punch on the edge of the pin or should I place the pointed punch on the leg of the lug?
Or, is there a better method? The pin does not impede the gun's cycling, it only drops free after I remove the barrel from the slide.

Mike

[gearchecker]

I'm attaching a schematic to be sure we're talking about the same thing.


The pin is #10, the link is #9?
Option 1 - Take your slide to a local hardware store and have them measure the sizes of the linkage holes in the slide to find out what the larger diameter of the two holes are. (left and right holes)
Buy a pin that's .001" larger in diameter than the largest of the two holes and very gently tap it into place. You should grease the holes lighly to help them slide together. The tension of the larger pin should hold it into place. Taper the pin slightly beforehand and tap it in from the larger hole, toward the smaller hole to get it to snug in correctly.

Option 2 - Get a pin the same diameter but slightly longer then the current link pin. Peen it into place to basically flare the ends to keep it from sliding thru again.

Option 3 - Take it to a gunsmith and have them do it.

I wish you the best in resolving this problem.
Greogry

[mmitch]

Gregory,

Thank-You, much, for going to the trouble to resond with the schematic. Indeed, #10 is the part in question. My thought was to peen (mushroom/displace metal) on the pin that's already in the gun. It would not take much to very slightly "mush" the ends of the pin with a sharp rap from a center-punch to each side flat.

I appeciate your thoughtful, optioned response,
Mike

[LeMat]

Is the pin only falling out of one side of the lug?

I'g go ahead and peen the pin only and not the lug. You may be able to get away with actually peening the middle. One end or both ends if falling out either side. Shouldn't take much. It's a very easy fix.

[DocZeus]

Mike, looks like Greg has already helped ya out on yer link-pin issues, with some good solutions.

Here's a few links to Brownell's parts; I've used these from time to time, on older 1911's I've bought that had a sloppy barrel-to-frame fit:

1911 AUTO MATCH GRADE LINK PIN - Brownells

Usually, I'll ream the link pin holes to make them uniform, then measure the holes (IIRC, factory is 0.154" diameter hole).....They sell an oversized, 0.156" pin, that would require no peening of the ends to get it to "stay put". If you peen the pin ends, it might be hard to get it back apart, for detail cleaning, or replacing a bad barrel link.

1911 AUTO BARREL LINK KIT - Brownells

The link above shows the 5 sizes (#3 is standard, factory-dimensions, 0.278" center-to-center hole distance) for a replacement barrel link; just take a pocket scale, and measure the center-to-center distance between the holes on your link, and get one that will "tighten up" that distance a bit, but not TOO tight. Too-tight a fit will usually snap the link during firing. They increment in +/- 0.005" distances, as much as -0.015" undersized. These replacement parts will keep you from having to peen pins, or modify any frame holes, when properly sized and fitted......

Also, a quick "cheat" method to check the hole sizes, if you don't have a set of inside expandable hole gauges (doesn't everybody? ), is to use the following drill-bit sizes as a "go, no-go" gauge: Numbered Drill Bit #23, 0.154" diameter; Fractional Drill Bit 1/64", 0.156" diameter; Fractional Drill Bit 5/32", 0.1562" diameter; and Numbered Drill Bit #22, 0.157" diameter. Get the corresponding link and pin that fits per the drill bit that fits your holes.

DocZeus
AKA
David

[mmitch]

LeMat, David,

Thank-You, both.
Exploration/research are "underway"!

Mike

[19and41]

I would use my automatic center punch and give it one or two strikes in the center, with the other end supported on an anvil-like surface.

[mmitch]

19and41,

That may be my in-house resolution, but I'll have to resort to the archaic "manual" center-punch!

'preciatecha,
Mike

[gearchecker]

Looks like we've got your back on this one.
DocZeus. I didn't know they published the exact diameters and lengths on that wrist pin. What a great answer on how to fix it.
I like the oversize pin idea the best. But lightly peening is a good solution as well. I would imagine it's not hardened steel.

Hats off to everybody on helping out a friend here.
Gregory

[mmitch]

Gregory,

It's just like I expected it to be when I posed the question. There is a wealth of vast experience shared by very generous folks, hereabouts.
What fine company I (we) enjoy, here!
I am so proud to be among all of you.

Mike