Painting bottom of brass for ID purposes??!!

[NWDave]

To maintain family harmony (with my BIL) I think I need to be able to ID my brass after firing. We both reload and save our brass, rather aggressively, if you know what I mean (wink, wink......) and either fortunately or unfortunately, we both fire and reload the same calibers (makes for some rather competitive outings since we're shooting partners but that's a tale for another day). I've tried various search programs to no avail.

So, ladies and gentlemen, yea or nay, it's ok to use a paint pen or red sharpie or something similar to leave a mark on the bottom of the case (or elsewhere if you know of a better spot on the brass).

~Dave

[OldCavSoldier]

I have the same problem, sorta. My solution was to take a silver sharpie (relatively hard to get) and put an "R" on the bottom of each of my brass cartridge cases. (I use a blue one on nickel plated cartridge cases.) When my shooting buddy asked why, I simply said that it identifies my brass for when I am shooting with other-than-family-members or other-than-close-friends. he was satisfied with that answer and started putting his first initial on the headstamp area of his brass......everybody happy.....

[gearchecker]

Dave,
You're shooting partners? How about shooting ex-partners?

Sorry, I just couldn't resist

Gregory

[banger]

Suffering a dearth of .357 cases, I load some 38 spl "hot" and dab the primers with red fingernail polish, and on my old Low Wall that was sleeved and chambered for "38 LC", I load light, and dab these 38 spl primers with green fingernail polish.

I had my wife pick up some green and red at the cosmetic counter and she told the clerk that it was for her husband . . .

[DocZeus]

I had a similar situation come up years ago when I shot in a league, subsequent arguing about whose brass was whose, etc.

This is what I used to eliminate any doubt, and it will NOT come off, until you use the remover for it:

McMaster-Carr

It's called "layout fluid", a dye used by machinists and fabricators to precision layout marks on any metal, for scribing lines to cut/machine/etc.; it stays put, until you use an acetone or toluene/xylene solvent to remove it. I've used it for many years in the machine shops/fab shops I've worked in, so I always had some in my tool boxes. Most common colors are blue and red, the red REALLY stands out on yellow brass cartridges.

The layout fluids I referenced above:



Before Application:



AFTER Application:



Hope that helps!



DocZeus
AKA
David

[NWDave]

Sounds like just what I'm looking for. We have a specialized hardware store that may just have this McMaster-Carr dye. I actually have a silver sharpie around this joint somewhere. Might just be easier to go buy one than try to find this one. Thanks to all suggestors, except for that guy in IdeeHoo. For him, I hate to give easy openings to a punch line.

[DocZeus]

Just a warning: layout fluid is HIGHLY SOLVENT, and will penetrate EVERY nook and cranny, so put it on the brass, and let it dry, BEFORE you prime/charge/seat the cases! It's highly probable that putting layout fluid on a LOADED case could screw up the primer, and cause it to malfunction. But, applying it beforehand to de-primed/cleaned cases should be A-OK.

DocZeus
AKA
David

[NWDave]

Oh sure, NOW he tells me, after spending time priming approximately 2000 cases in .45acp/9mm/38spec. Getting ready for the spring rush. Well, guess I'll have to go shoot out the primers so I can get them cases coded. Guess tomorrow won't be soon enough. As if I needed an excuse.

[OldCavSoldier]

You guys crack me up!! Thanks! I'm happy to see that I am not alone.........

[banger]

How would that blue work for refinishing a gun -- 2 or 3 coats of it, maybe ? ?